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April 9, 2005
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Funded by the National Science Foundation
Office of Polar Programs |
Location: 63 27.833 S, 56 26.841 W
Temperature: -5 C
Wind Chill: -25 C
Port Wind: 20-25 knots
Back in the Antarctic Sound
It was a night that a first time Antarctic voyager will remember forever. As the sun disappeared on the horizon and we entered Erebus and Terror Gulf, the temperature dropped suddenly and gusts of wind became stronger. Normally black radar screen was mostly green. The bright lights from the bridge went from starboard to port and back searching for a break in the ice and there was none to be found. I looked at our CaptainÄôÑ¥s face for reassurance. He appeared calm and confident as always. Then, there was a loud thud and a crunch. The Palmer gently rolled onto her port side, stayed like that as if straddling the ice, then just as gracefully rolled back. She kept advancing at a slow but steady pace as the ice parted before her awesome power. My friend, a veteran, this being her fourth time on the Palmer, explained that the ship is built to break three meters of ice moving steadily forward at the speed of three knots. She rightfully remarked that one does not get this kind of experience on a fancy cruise liner. We were both grateful to have had Captain Mike at the helm.
The Palmer was carefully advancing south toward our next destination, Seymour Island. Gusts of wind and snow increased, reaching 75 knots in the early morning hours. The ice thickened and Palmer's course became all but a straight line south. There was more bad news, as if the weather was not enough of a challenge. Andy reported that the rig needed to be repaired. His crew could fix everything, but needed several hours in calm waters and sheltered from the blistering wind. The trouble came in threes last night. By the morning the streamer used for seismic surveys was damaged by the ice. The course southwards had to be aborted and it was decided to look for shelter in the waters of the Antarctic Sound.
The way I see it, Antarctica is supposed to be harsh and forbidding, reserved for the most resolute. Every story about exploration in Antarctica should have its share of difficulties. We have completed some of this requirement as of last night.
The winds have calmed down. The rig has been repaired. The replacement streamer has been found. It was a day to rest, repair, and reorganize. We are heading south again determined and optimistic.
Alex Injac

The Palmer in ice

Rosamel Island

Dundee Island
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